Collagen creams have gained popularity as an over-the-counter restorative treatment for a healthier, youthful complexion. But do they work? And what should you look for when choosing one? Read on to find out.
What Is Collagen?
Collagen is a protein that occurs naturally in our skin, making up about 72% of its weight. It provides the suppleness and elasticity that give our skin its robust, youthful appearance. Our body regularly breaks down its collagen and replaces it, but as we age, our body’s ability to make new collagen slows, at the cost of our skin’s health and appearance.
To make matters worse, certain factors can accelerate the breakdown of collagen in our skin. Unprotected exposure to sunlight triggers collagen breakdown, resulting in “photoaging” of the skin. High and low temperatures, stress, smoking, environmental toxins, and the chemicals in some cosmetics also increase collagen destruction. Reduced levels of vitamins A, C, and E as we age also play a role, as they protect collagen health.
As our skin loses its collagen and its ability to replace it, the skin’s collagen support system deteriorates. The result is gradual thinning and sagging of the skin, and the development of lines and wrinkles. Collagen is also responsible for moisture retention in the skin, so reduced-collagen skin takes on a dry and ashen appearance.
Collagen Supplementation
Slowing down collagen loss or replacing collagen through oral supplementation, injections, or topical preparations are major strategies for preventing or reversing the ageing effects of the skin, particularly on the face. Today, we’ll talk about topical collagen supplementation using creams.
Most collagen supplements are derived from cattle (bovine) sources, but recent concerns about cow diseases have led to searches for other sources. As well, about 3% of people are allergic to bovine collagen. Collagen from marine plants and animals has proven to be an especially effective source for cosmetic creams.
Does It Work?
Collagen is not absorbed by the skin when applied topically, but that’s not the end of the story. Most collagen creams use “hydrolyzed” collagen, which means that the large collagen molecules have been broken down into smaller pieces (peptides) that can penetrate the skin much better.
The most restorative effect of hydrolyzed collagen creams is that they significantly improve the moisture retention of the skin. Collagen attracts and retains moisture, so the rehydration effect of collagen supplements provides a significant antidote to the age-related dehydration that makes the skin limp and lackluster.
As well, hydrolyzed collagen peptides have an antioxidant effect, thereby protecting against photoaging and damage from environmental toxins, cigarette smoke, the effects of cosmetics, and other agents harmful to skin health.
Clinical studies using laser measurement instruments have shown that hydrolyzed collagen creams do penetrate the deeper layers of skin and improve the skin’s texture, elasticity, and other healthful properties. These creams have also been shown to promote the healing of cuts, infections, and other skin wounds.
A 2020 clinical study found that a topical hydrolyzed collagen cream produced a significant reduction in wrinkles within minutes of the first application, and more after a further 3 months of use. Several other studies have found similar results when studying collagen cream used on the skin around the eyes. These studies found that the application of collagen cream to the skin around the eyes reduced wrinkles significantly within minutes of the first application, and there was further measurable wrinkle reduction after 3 months of treatment.
There may be an additional possible benefit, although more research needs to be done to confirm it. Recent research suggests that marine-sourced hydrolyzed collagen applied topically may help induce new collagen synthesis. This would mean further significant improvements to overall skin health and appearance.
Choosing a Product
One caveat to the research is that the collagen proteins used to make an effective collagen cream must be hydrolyzed into very small particles (6 or 7 amino acids, or less than 10 kDa (kilodaltons) in weight). Therefore, the quality of the product used is key. Some products have even smaller particles, which further enhances skin penetration.
Unfortunately, it may be difficult to determine the particle size for a specific product without visiting the product website or contacting the manufacturer. As a minimum, be sure to select a collagen cream that includes “hydrolyzed collagen” or “collagen hydrolysate” on the product list. Quality, reputable brands are more likely to produce products with smaller particle sizes.
If you have oily, acne-prone skin, you may wish to opt for a collagen cream that includes retinol or an alpha-hydroxy acid because of their anti-acne properties. If you have dry skin, you may wish to select a product that is thicker and thereby produces a moisture-preserving layer on the surface of your skin. Products that contain vitamins A (retinol), C, and E may add further benefit for skin health.
Bottom Line
The take-home message is that there is good research evidence from quality clinical studies that show that collagen creams do the following for the skin:
- Rehydrate
- Form a barrier against moisture loss
- Help prevent damage from free radicals from pollutants and smoke
- Help prevent damage from UV radiation from sunlight
- Reduce wrinkles in the short and long term
- Possibly induce new collagen production in the skin
Better quality collagen cream products are likely to have smaller collagen particle sizes that provide better results.
