Moisturizing our skin is important for skin health and youthfulness, particularly on the face. But there are many products available with a large variety of ingredients and several choices for skin types. Read on to find out which moisturizer is right for you.
Why We Need Skin Moisturizers
The skin maintains a healthy water balance to fulfill its important functions, such as providing a barrier against infection, protecting us from environmental toxins, regulating our body temperature, and making vitamin D. A loss of water balance in the skin threatens those functions and creates many of the changes associated with ageing, such as loose, limp skin, lines and wrinkles, and a dull complexion.
There are a number of factors that contribute to skin dehydration, including:
- Sun exposure
- Cold or hot and dry weather
- Air conditioning and heating
- Air pollutants
- Cigarette smoking
- Harsh soaps and detergents
- Over-washing the skin
- Over-exfoliating with chemical exfoliants or brushes
- Makeup or skin products containing alcohol, fragrances, or other skin irritants
- Not drinking enough water
- Alcohol use
- Chronic stress
- A diet lacking fresh vegetables
- Some medical conditions, such as eczema
Dry skin is one of the effects of ageing. The primary reason for this is that collagen—the protein that makes up 70% of our skin and provides the support scaffold for our skin’s firmness and structure—becomes progressively depleted. Collagen attracts and binds water, making it a crucial factor for skin’s overall hydration. Other factors also contribute to skin dehydration as we age, such as accumulated sun damage and the accumulated effects of exposure to environmental toxins.
To keep our skin functioning properly and to regain and maintain a healthier, more youthful appearance, moisturization is a must-do daily routine.
Which Moisturizing Agents Are Most Effective?
Let us now look at the types of ingredients you will see in skin moisturizers. The label and ingredient list will tell exactly what kind of moisturizer you are looking at. Many products combine types of ingredients. Some of these ingredients are expensive, so they are primarily only used in facial products.
Occlusives
These are oily preparations that form a barrier on the skin surface and prevent the loss of water through the skin. Here are the types of occlusive agents:
- Hydrocarbons: petrolatum, paraffin, mineral oil, squalene
- Silicones: dimethicone
- Wax esters: lanolin, beeswax
- Animal fats: lanolin, mink oil, emu oil
- Vegetable oil: coconut oil, olive oil, soybean oil
- Cholesterols and ceramides
Humectants
“Humectants” are moisturizer ingredients that attract and bind water. Perhaps the most effective humectant is “hydrolyzed collagen.” This is the collagen protein found naturally in the skin that is broken down into small particles so that they’re absorbed deep into the skin. Hydrolyzed collagen has extensive research evidence supporting its effectiveness as a skin moisturizer. Other humectants include urea, panthenol, and aloe vera.
AHAs
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are humectants that are often used in moisturizers. They serve the dual purpose of clearing away flakes and dead skin cells (through chemical microdermabrasion), thereby improving the appearance of the skin and allowing easier water absorption. However, they may also increase water loss through the skin, so they are often used in combination with an occlusive agent.
Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the AHAs most commonly seen in moisturizers. Caution must be used because AHAs may irritate and burn the skin, especially on the face. For this reason, they are available in various concentrations (for example, glycolic acid generally comes in 2%, 4%, 6%, 8%, and 10% concentrations). This allows us to try out a low concentration first to make sure our skin can tolerate it, and then work up in concentration as our skin becomes habituated. People with sensitive skin should be especially careful and may wish to “patch test” the product the first time.
Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers are chemicals that combine water and oil to provide good penetration into the skin and to bind the water in the skin. They have the added benefit of providing some occlusive protection. Common emulsifiers in skin moisturizers include lecithin, glycol stearate, and cetearyl alcohol.
Choosing a Moisturizer Based on Your Skin Type
In addition to ingredients, we can also choose a moisturizer based on the “vehicle” type: a gel, cream, or lotion, for example. Let us look at some recommended choices for various skin types:
- Dry skin: Avoid gels, look for thicker moisturizers that contain an occlusive as well as a humectant. Consider an AHA if your dry skin is flaky.
- Oily skin: Choose a thin, oil-free product such as a gel. Products containing AHAs are good for oily skin. Avoid products containing occlusives.
- Acne-prone skin: Avoid occlusives. Prefer gels containing AHAs.
- Sensitive skin: Hypoallergenic, fragrance-free moisturizers may be best. Avoid AHAs and prefer soothing ingredients such as aloe or chamomile.
- Mature skin: The collagen loss in our skin as we age can create considerable dehydration. In such cases, a product with hydrolyzed collagen is an excellent choice, as it provides the added factor of research-proven reduction of wrinkles and lines. A rich, thick lotion, cream, or ointment may help with deeper penetration and prevention of water loss. AHAs are also a good choice, providing moisturization and microdermabrasion.
- Combination skin: Try a product with hydrolyzed collagen, and experiment to see what moisturizer types work best for you.
