Scrubs are items or compounds designed to cleanse and exfoliate the skin. Cleansing the skin involves removing dirt, grime, sebum and other oils and secretions, makeup, and other contaminants. Exfoliation means removing the dead and old skin cells from the outermost layer of skin (the “epidermis”) to promote new skin cell growth.
Why Scrub the Skin?
Scrubs can leave the skin temporarily red and sore. So why do it? When washing the skin with soaps and facial washes, most of the dead skin cells are not removed, and the pores are not completely unplugged or cleansed. The result can be dry skin with clogged pores.
Exfoliation obtains a deeper cleanse and removal of dead skin cells, and unplugs blocked pores by removing the keratin plugs (keratin is a type of protein found on the skin). In this way, exfoliation helps to improve the skin’s smoothness and texture, moisture, color, and health, and enhances the skin’s ability to absorb and retain moisturizers. Exfoliation is also beneficial for preventing or reducing acne and slowing the aging process of skin, including the development of lines and wrinkles.
Chemical Versus Mechanical Exfoliation
There are two types of exfoliation scrubs: chemical and mechanical.
Mechanical exfoliation involves using some kind of an abrasive to remove the dead skin cells from the outer layer of the skin. This may be by using an abrasive item, such as a pumice stone, but when it comes to facial scrubs, mechanical exfoliation is more commonly performed using tiny abrasive particles suspended in a carrier oil or cream. Due to the delicateness of the skin, facial scrubs are usually made with a relatively fine and mild abrasive. Sugar scrubs are an excellent example of a fine-particle, mild abrasive (sugar) used for the face.
Chemical exfoliation involves using acids or enzymes (proteins that initiate a chemical reaction) to dissolve dead skin cells and their attachments to the skin so that they can be easily washed away. Chemical exfoliation is the basis of “chemical peels.” Examples of chemical exfoliants include alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs, such as glycolic acid) and retinol (vitamin A). Chemical exfoliation preparations are available over the counter in weaker formulations, and much stronger versions are applied in treatments by medical professionals.
Sugar Scrubs
Sugar scrubs are made from any sugar, which provides the particles for mechanical exfoliation. A variety of sugar types and sources can be used, and they are usually dissolved in a “humectant.” Humectants are moisturizers; they deliver moisture to the skin and serve the dual purpose of acting as a carrier for the exfoliant. They may also contain an essential oil or other ingredient to supply a fragrance.
Sugar scrubs are especially notable because they are easily made in the home. You don’t need high-tech microbeads or any other unusual ingredients. For example, here is a recipe suggested by Lisa Le:
- Gently melt ⅓ cup of coconut oil in a jar by immersing the jar in a pot of simmering water.
- Add 5 cups of ordinary granulated sugar.
- Add ⅓ cup of jojoba oil (or other vegetable or seed oil such as almond oil, olive oil, or sunflower oil). As an alternative to an oil, aloe vera gel may be used.
- Add 3 tsp of an extract, such as vanilla, mint, or lemon.
- Add a few drops of food coloring.
- Mix until evenly distributed.
This sugar scrub can be used anywhere on the body, including the face. But do not scrub too hard on the sensitive skin of the face.
How To Use a Sugar Scrub
You should not use a sugar scrub or any other exfoliant daily, especially on your face. They remove old skin cells so that fresh, new skin cells take their place, so the skin needs time to replenish and heal between exfoliations. No more than twice a week is the usual limit, but you should let your body tell you what is right. If your skin is still red or sensitive from the last exfoliation, then it is likely too soon for the next one. Similarly, if your skin is dry or irritated, you may be exfoliating too often.
Sugar scrubs may leave your skin sticky, so you may need to bathe after use. In fact, using sugar scrubs while in the shower or bath is a common practice. Scrubs should be applied, then massaged into the skin in a gentle circular motion so that they can exert their abrasive effect. Rinsing and washing with a gentle soap afterward helps wash away the exfoliated debris and the stickiness of the sugar. Skin should be patted dry to avoid further trauma.
Make sure to use a good sunscreen on sun-exposed areas after exfoliation. The exfoliated skin is extra-sensitive to sun damage, and protective natural oils have been removed.
If you have a skin condition or you react to the exfoliant, it may be best to consult your dermatologist before treating.
